Photo Credit: www.planetbollywood.com
For those of us who grew up watching Bollywood movies in the early 90s, the image of Madhuri Dixit smiling and dancing across the screen is still quite clear in our minds. But, for those of us who were into makeup even back then, the awful three inch thick foundation caked on her face is an even more vivid memory. As we entered the age of high-definition television and digital cameras, cosmetics companies began working harder at providing us with weightless makeup that made the foundation from the 1990s look like it belonged in the 1890s. Yes, we are lucky to be living in this age, but an HD lifestyle means we need to be all the more careful about finding the right color foundation, or our makeup blunders will be forever captured and posted for all to see on the latest social networking site (evidence: the foundation faux pas I shared with you in my last post).
Choosing the right foundation shade can be nerve-wracking, but there are a few tried and tested ways to make it (slightly) easier. Let me begin by saying, girls, please, do NOT let department store sales assistants pressure you into buying a foundation before you have tested it out the right way! They may mean well and seem to know what they’re talking about, but only you and those who are familiar with your features (a sister, a close friend) can truly determine if a color is right for you and your daily needs. Trust me, I’ve been through a LOT of different foundations. And by a lot, I mean almost every brand out there. Don’t stop until you find the perfect one!
The first step to choosing the right color is to determine the undertone of your skin. Most people automatically 
assume that because they have brown skin, they have yellow undertones. This is not always the case, many Desis tend to have pink undertones as well. There are several ways to determine your tone. Some makeup artists suggest looking at the veins on the inside of your wrist. If the veins are blue, you are pink-toned, and if they are green you are yellow-toned. If you cannot make out the color, then you are most likely neutral-toned. Another technique is to first wash your face, pat it dry and place a white towel around your neck. Inspect your skin in the bathroom mirror and you should be able to make out your tone against the contrast of the towel. Buying a foundation based on your undertone helps to prevent you from looking pale and washed-out or kind of dirty (à-la-Lindsay Lohan).
Now, while I agree it’s key to determine your undertone, it’s also important to remember this is only a starting point. For example, not all Bobbi Brown foundations (which are mostly yellow-toned) will suit you just because you have green veins. A couple of years ago I had a makeover done at Bobbi Brown and was contemplating buying the foundation they matched me with. I have very yellow skin so I assumed it would look great – that is, until my mother saw me and asked if I had jaundice and needed to go to the doctor. I washed it right off.
Photo Credit: narscosmetics.com
Photo Credit: www.makemeheal.com
The next step is to try out a few different brands. Don’t restrict yourself to a cosmetics company just because it suits some of your other South Asian friends. A lot of Desi girls tend to gravitate toward MAC Cosmetics, which has gained a reputation of catering to women of color. A few years ago, MAC was the go-to brand in foundation for almost all skin tones. That may have been true then, but ladies, times have changed. Although you may not know it because cosmetics companies do a shoddy job at advertising for South Asian women, many brands have recently been dedicated to adding more shades to their makeup lines to cater to different ethnicities. While MAC may work for some, it did absolutely nothing for me – I either looked ashy or orange, they simply could not color match me. I turned to another company NARS that like MAC, focuses on women of color in their ad campaigns. I happened to find what I consider to by my perfect match and haven’t strayed yet. If you have the $$$ to spend, I would suggest checking out the Giorgio Armani line – the feel of their foundation is absolutely divine and their shade levels are pretty decent. If you’re a bit strapped for cash, drop by the Clinique counter, they are constantly introducing new formulations and colors. There are also brands created for women of ethnicity like Maven Cosmetics (the co-founders are Chinese and Pakistani), which we will be discussing later.
When actually trying on the foundations, you or the sales assistant should swipe three different shades of foundation in your color and skin tone range on your cheek (never match the color to your hand as your face color is very different). The one that melts into your skin and can barely be seen is the one for you. I know some girls are tempted to go for the lighter shades because it’s culturally encouraged, but ladies, we are no longer in the 80s – tan is beautiful. Also, you are not fooling anyone into thinking you have a lighter complexion, we can still see the rest of you 
Alas, if only that were the end of it! The next step is actually the most important. What many people are unaware of is that your foundation color changes a little while after you first apply it. The oil in your moisturizer or skin (even if your skin is on the drier side), as well as using the wrong toned shade, can oxidize the foundation and change the shade. As a result, you may end up with orange-y looking skin. Similarly, if you buy too light of a shade, the color can start to look chalky and even though you might think it looks all right on your face, it is very visible against your neck.
Photo Credit: www.desifashionpolice.com
Finally, (yes finally!) you should ask to take a sample of the foundation home. Try it on yourself with your own blush and lipstick. Your foundation is not worn alone, it’s a base for the makeup you already own and therefore must complement it! Also, most cosmetic companies offer foundations in both oil-free and normal consistencies, so make sure you’re buying a color that’s right for your skin type (oily, acne-prone, dry, etc). Be sure to test your shade out in the day vs. the night, take a mirror outside your house and make sure you don’t look orange in the sunlight (yes, I’ve had that happen to me too). If you’re completely satisfied, then congratulations, you’re one of the 10% of girls who is actually happy with her foundation. If you’re like the rest of us and are not completely content, keep searching, there are many options – the world no longer revolves around MAC!
This may sound like a lot just to find a foundation, but as I said, your foundation is the base to the rest of your makeup. If your foundation is off, no lipstick or blush can make up for it, people won’t notice how great your eyes look – they WILL be focusing on your ashy/orange face, trust me. So, spending a little time searching for the right shade is worth it.
One last tip on foundation shades: no matter how dark-skinned you are, your skin color will change slightly with the seasons. Most people can’t use the same foundation color for winter and summer – some tan so much they need to move down two shades. Even if you look fabulous in the winter, you may be looking scary by summer. Do yourself a favor and consider looking into a second foundation when the weather gets warmer. You’ll save yourself the hassle of having to untag all your Facebook photos this summer.
Photo Credit: amean j. (www.ameanj.com)
Happy hunting! 
i ADORE your layout! i used nars on my wedding- after going to millions of make-up counters. what is your take on concealers? can you do a 101 on that? surprisingly, the make up artist used the nars foundation under my eyes, too and it looked fine. what about foundation for women who’ll be under the flash a lot (brides)?
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I grew up watching bollywood in the early 90’s…all I remember is amitabh bachan’s hip thrusts…and I cant seem to get them out of my head.
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Mars [Miss Masala],
I’m not the type of person to wear a lot of makeup period, let alone foundation. What is a good foundation to wear on a night out that is more like a powder and is really light?
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Maria, this is awesome! Is 30 too late to learn to wear makeup? I recently came to the realization that my daughters’ godmother will have to teach them, since I don’t have a clue!
P.S. It’s nice to “see” you again after all these years.
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i’ll let mars answer that one but here is my two cents on this: my friends who dont wear foundation wear smthg called minerals or mineralise. mars can you elaborate? by the way, it looks fantastic on them…
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Hi Kasloom,
i was reading your comment and I think you should go to a Lancome counter and try their Dual Finish Powder. It can be worn three ways, with the sponge they suplly for a matte full coverage, with a powder brush for a light coverage, or you can wear it wet for a sheer foundation effect. It looks almost airbrushed it applied right! Also they have a wide variety to choose from so us desi girls have more choices!!
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I agree with SOS completely!
After being an avid mac foundation user for many years, I have now gravitated towards mineral makeup (bare minerals, everyday minerals, etc). They have a wide variety of shades that you can mix and match to find what suits your skin tone best. It also feels very light on your skin (as opposed to mac, which is very thick). It gives excellent coverage and is fairly easy to apply.
I have become a true believer in mineralized makeup!
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@SOS Bridal Makeup! I could write a whole post just about bridal foundation, and probably will, but here are a few tips.
- For those girls getting married, especially in Pakistan, India and Bangladesh – TAKE YOUR FOUNDATION WITH YOU! I’m sure like me you have seen countless poor brides with washed out complexions due to being matched with the wrong makeup. You may be one of the lucky ones like my sister who looked great with the color the salon chose. But, I wouldn’t take that chance – I’m too terrified. It’s your wedding – do you really want to try out a new foundation on one of the most important days of your life?
– Flashes wash you out; this applies to all makeup, not just foundation. Your foundation may appear lighter than normal under bright lights even if it is a perfect match. I wouldn’t advise a darker foundation shade, instead, you should warm up your skin with a little bronzer or else you’ll have the Rani Mukherjee look from above.
- Try to avoid using frosty or shimmery highlighters where the camera flash hits your face – the reflection will cause you to look unnecessarily shiny!
- Lastly, concealer is incredibly important. Some foundations like NARS are thicker and can be built up to use under the eyes if you don’t wish to use concealer. But, if you have dark circles, I wouldn’t take that chance – flashes accentuate flaws! However, you must pick the right concealer or you’ll end up with the dreaded “panda look,” which I’ll discuss in a future post.
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@Kalsoom, I’ve actually heard a lot of good things about the Lancome product Rupal mentioned, you should definitely check it out. It’s supposed to be especially good for girls with combination to oil skin because it mattifies while covering. The concept of mineral makeup has also exploded and people seem to love it. Sadly, Bare Escentuals (Bare Minerals) didn’t have enough colors to match me, but you might be lucky. A lot of drugstore brands have also joined the mineral makeup game, the Physicians Formula one is supposed to be fairly decent. Sephora is the place to go! The look of mineral makeup is supposed to be very natural, but one warning, mineral makeup has been known to dry people’s skin out. If you have oiler skin that’s prone to shine then you will love it. Both the Lancome and the mineral foundation have buildable coverage, so if you’re not comfortable with foundation, you can apply as sheer a layer as you wish
Also, I know you mentioned you wanted something powdery, but you might also want to consider tinted moisturizer. If you already own foundation, you can apply a little of it to your favorite moisturizer, and if not, almost every brand makes one. It’s also easier to color match because the coverage is so sheer and doesn’t take over your face, i.e. you’re less prone to having oompa loompa face or appearing scary white. You’ll still feel like you have nothing on, but your complexion will be smoothed out. I’m a fan of Smashbox’s oil-free version.
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30 is definitely not too late, 30 is the new 20! It’s great to see you here!
Hugs to the little ones.
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@ Rupal, I had heard of the Dual Finish but never tried it because I wasn’t aware of the shade variety – thanks for the tip!
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@AF I’ve been dying to switch to mineral makeup, but I just can’t let go of my NARS. I’m addicted!
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yes, reimas, but the more important question is – how was his makeup?
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What an informative post! I am currently using Benefit’s YouRebel tinted moisturizer, and for days that I need more coverage, I use BareMinerals Tan or Medium Tan. Thanks to your post I have figured out I am pink-toned — I’ve always wanted to know, and I’m sure it will help when I am next shopping for foundation
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Great to see you here! I’m so glad the post helped
How is the You Rebel working out for you?
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I also really like mineral makeup because its simple, quick to apply, free of fragrances and can be work as light as you want – would love to get more of your input on it. I’m also looking forward to your detailed explanations of the mysteries of eye makeup! Especially eye liner that is not irritating to sensitive eyes and that will stay put.
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If you don’t want to wear foundation because your skin is pretty much even but you have a few spots or patches you want to cover the best product in the world is Bobby Browns Blemish Stick. It is AMAZING! I looked for a concealer for years until I found this product. It can be applied to small spots but even bigger patches on the face. Its creamy but doesn’t cause irritation or produce access oil. I highly recommend this for people who don’t want to use a foundation but are looking for some sort of cover-up.
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Bobbi Brown blemish stick IS pretty amazing. I’m planning on doing a post soon on concealer, I will definitely feature her’s.
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Welcome to lipstick masala! I think one of the biggest problems is the intimidating looks magazines try to get us to do – the every day girl isn’t going to know how to do a smoky eye look with 5 different shades regardless of how much instruction there is. I use a lot of shortcuts that I will be sharing with you guys, eye makeup can look good without being so complicated
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I don’t think No 7 is available in the US/Canada, but for girls in the UK No 7 Intelligent Colour Foundation is ideal if you don’t know where to start. For years I never used foundation because after trying to get it right a few times, I gave up. No 7 comes in three shades, light, medium (best for desi skin) and dark and it does exactly what it says on the box – adjust to match the colour of your skin for a sheer, natural finish. It provides light to medium coverage, very easy to apply and has the silkiest finish. It takes the guess work out of finding the right foundation for your skin tone, great if you’re a newbie!
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Ayesha, some Target stores have started carrying a few uk brands represented by Boots (YAYYYY!). I will definitely try out the No 7, I’m in the market for a new foundation. Thanks for the tip!
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So I have some stuff to share.
1) For years I have been a huge fan of Equalizer by Estee Lauder (i wore the color warm gold). For combination skin it’s GREAT.
2) Then I came across Tient Idole Ultra by Lancome. (I wear buff 6). I have worn it on my wedding with Dual Finish Powder by lancome (matte neutral II) and it looked amazing in the pictures and in real person.
3) If you prefer wearing foundations to only big occasions and rest of the time you want something light (like me) then the best thing man ever created is Instant Light Complexion Perfector by Clarins.
The only bad thing about this is, it comes in only one color (00-Rose Shimmer), which suits light to medium skinned people.
Everyone I have recommended it to loves it. It gives you a natural glow.
Since my skin is on the oilier side, I wear Shine Stopper by Clarins (10- Beige Transparent). It has no coverage, just takes away the excessive shine. But you can wear your everyday powder with it.
Try it and you will love it if you like the natural look!
And yes Mac foundations make me look like The Corpse Bride! No Kidding!
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hey how r u ppl?i don’t know what to sat n ask….i’ve a real prob ab foundation and bases whatever n conceler 2……i thjink may u ppl help me out…. first tell me how can i find my skin tone….n tell me whick shade suits on me shades of foundation……i don’t want heavy coverage medium n light wil best.i useed many foundation n stick like tv pain stick in ivory n shade 3w….ut it seem like white as m face looks white …i also use clinque water ase chinese n 1 light colour…but m not satisfied all those plzz suggest me n guide me what can i do ab that help me n guide me……u can ask me q uestion 2…….soo plzz reply me on my id….
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I just came across this blog and I LOVE IT! I check it several times a day for updates.
I want to ask you what you do if your face and neck/body are legitimately different colors. No joke – my face is like 10 times lighter than my body. The makeup artists have tried everything from matching my face to my neck and vice versa, but everything looks done up. Do I just go ahead and wear foundation that matches my face, and look like a freak in pictures with a white face and dark neck or…
I’ve bought atleast different 30 foundations in search of something to help me. Do you have any thoughts?
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Finally, I find someone with the same problem I have! The reason why I’ve struggled so much with foundations is that unlike most people whose face is darker than their neck, mine is a few shades lighter so I know exactly how you feel. This is why I fell madly in love with NARS because it made me look somewhat normal. You can also try using a bobbi brown blemish stick for your spots topped off with a simple powder if your skin is not too acne prone.
However, this is what I do. If you can’t find a foundation that works for you, I would recommend using a faint golden/bronze shimmer powder on your face to warm up your tone. I’m not a fan of regular powders because they make people look cakey. A lot of brands make loose shimmer powders that have very faint shimmer when applied sparingly (like Laura Mercier, and Clinique). Trust me, this will be the best thing you can do for yourself. Use a skunk brush (light application is key to avoiding looking like a discoball) and just swirl all over your face after foundation and before blush/bronzer. You can brush off excess with a clean powder brush – it will seriously warm up your complexion and the difference between face and neck will be less visible. You can also try using a bronzer, I personally don’t like them, but they’ve worked for plenty of others. If you have anymore questions you can email me directly at lipstickmasala@gmail.com I’ll be more than happy to help you find something that works for you – I know how tough and exasperating it is!
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hey thanx 4 the reply but i could’nt understan properly… yr u know in wedding i use n every1 use foundation n stick….so that y i ask?coz some of my friend told me a tv paint stick ivory n 3 w shade.but fisrtly i donnt know how to apply that.seconly i have diannaoflondon high coverage wonderfully delicate…(delicate beige) and some of manhaton compny like natural n natural sand shades and maxfactor flawless perfaction natural shade and i also have lairance 08 shade .but i don;t know what suits on me what shade is 4 me….plzz tell me in these whick shade is best 4 me….first tell me how can i find my skin tone….u know what all these founations r choosen by myself but i dont know y m not satisfied know.n u plzz tell me also how to apply these may b feels good.plz tell me help me out.
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i also wanan ask yr i have mac studeofix powder plus foundation(1) i that is for aal type of skin n complection…..?
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hey tell me what is twin cake and pan cake?campact powder and pressed powder and loose powder?
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hey u ppl did’nt ans me y?help me out na
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[...] you recall the post on choosing the right foundation color, you can try the strip test, but this time on the skin on your neck under your ear rather than on [...]
Hi Zee,
Sorry for the late reply, I was away for the last two weeks. Unfortunately, I won’t be able to tell you which shade will suit you exactly, as I am unfamiliar with your skintone. If you read the post above there is a method to find out what your undertones are, once you know those you can find a shade that is appropriate for you. Buying foundation is a trial and error method, so you will have to try many before you decide on one. If you reread the post above you will find most of the answers about choosing a shade
I’m not sure I understand your question about twin cake and pan cake – is it a product name?
Compact and Pressed powder are the same – it is a tightly packed powder that has heavier coverage and is better for oily girls. Loose powder is finely milled powder applied with a fluffy brush that gives a more natural look but is very difficult to carry around.
Hope that helps
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What is your take on drugstore mineral foundations?
I have oily skin so I should turn to the powder form, correct?
So would you recommend L’Oreal Paris Bare Naturale Gentle Mineral Foundation or Maybelline Mineral Power Foundation?
P.S. Keep up the great work!!!
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Hi Vinnie, welcome to the site!
There are some liquid formulas that claim to control shine, and you can always use a primer or mattifier underneath. However, if you are very oily and you would feel more comfortable I would say go for the powder. To compare the L’Oreal and Maybelline, I honestly have heard mixed reviews of both. From what I gather, the consistency and coverage of both brands is pretty much the same. It mostly comes down to the colors offered. Maybelline has had complaints of being too orangey and L’Oreal of having too few shades to suit South Asian skintones. I would honestly say, whichever has a better color match for you is the one you should go for. Just be warned if you haven’t used mineral makeup before, some people have experienced breakouts, especially with brands like Bare Escentuals (it seems the put some shady ingredients in their product which I’m looking into). So, with all products, test it out on a small patch of skin first so you don’t have a reaction. Also, I’m not sure of where you live, but if you’re in the U.S., people have had good things to say about mineral makeup by Physicians formula, also available at drugstores.
Hope that helps!
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Ayesha Reply:
March 24th, 2009 at 2:55 pm
I love it when I’m travelling. Getting a couple of shades darker whilst on holiday isn’t a problem with No 7. It’s genius! Good luck finding it
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Hi. I am enlightened by your word of advice. Although you said those things I am still confused. I am taking my senior portrait and I have no idea what to use as a foundation. There are many companies out there and I am just overwhelmed by it. I have mac foundation but I got darker. So I went to Sephora and they recommend make up for ever. I am satisfied with it but when I took a picture with a regular camera, it look ashy. Is that normal? What should I do?
I am filipino, yellow undertone and clueless?
here are 3 pictures of me (no makeup, makeup forever inside with intense light and makeup forever outside)
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g7/musicrules_talaga/20090808_2720.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g7/musicrules_talaga/20090808_2719.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g7/musicrules_talaga/20090808_2713.jpg
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Hi Regine!
First of all, you have absolutely gorgeous skin – you don’t even need any foundation! That being said, if you choose to use something, do not use the one that comes out ashy in the photos – your senior picture is one that you will always look back on and you want to look good. The color shade in the photos seems good, but the pigment is a little cool toned and making your pretty skin appear a little washed out. I would recommend that you try a different line of makeup – Bobbi Brown makes great foundations for yellow toned skin as do NARS and Shiseido – a shade that gives you slighly more warmth.
If you want to stick to the Makeup Forever shade, you can fix the slight ashy-ness by using powder that’s a little warmer to counter the washed out look. But, as I said you have gorgeous skin so shouldn’t use too much product. You can also try going up a color, but more than likely it will be too dark for you.
Hope that helps some!
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hello, i came across your page and somehow gave me the urge to ask an advice from you regarding my foundation.
lately ive been using mac since my mom is a mac user.
my mom suggests to get a NC45 from mac and i think it looks too dark for me. and i found this MAC Face & Body Foundation nc30 or c4 is commonly being used by asian makeup artist.
and i have another friend who told me nc40 or nc30 looks better on me.im kinda confused myself.
im a yellow-toned..or should i say more on the beige part.
heres the skin color
http://i38.tinypic.com/15cnd6q.jpg
my problem is, i dont know which is better to chose. nc30, nc40 or the Face & Body Foundation nc30/c4?
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Lipstick Masala Reply:
November 5th, 2009 at 5:40 am
Hi Stella, welcome to the site!
Unfortunately, because I’m not in front of you I won’t be able to tell you what your exact match would be, but I can give you a quick breakdown and leave it to you to decide with a MAC artist. I have seen NC45 usually used on lighter african american skintones so I think it may be too dark for you. NC30 is for beige-yellow asian skintones and NC40 generally looks best on those with olive skintones (which is what yours appears to be in the picture).
Again, I can’t be sure because I can’t see you in real life, but I would ask a mac artist to give you a sample of the NC40 to take home and try using the methods listed in this article.
Good luck, and you have beautiful skin by the way!
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Totally agree with everything you said. Another irritating thing about foundation: the well-meaning sales girl who pushes you to a colour far too dark! Really, I appreciate how darker-skinned women have much more choice in terms of foundation shades now than, say, 10 years ago, but GOD, that doesn’t mean you have to slap the darkest shade on me and insist it’s a match. I was at NARS a couple of weeks ago and I asked the sales girl about getting matched for a foundation. I ended up with my face about six shades darker than my body. I looked dirty, and the shade was far too red, anyway.
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Lipstick Masala Reply:
December 21st, 2009 at 3:41 am
Hi there Frances!
I had a similar experience recently. NARS discontinued my shade and I’ve spent the past few days being manhandled by numerous sales people. At the end of the day stick to your instinct – you know what looks best on you so if it feels off then it probably is! I ended up buying a foundation the sales assistant was against, but I knew it was the best for my skintone. If only we could shop at our own leisure without their pushiness
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Shue Reply:
August 26th, 2010 at 4:45 am
I went through a similar experience at MAC counter at Harrods, the sales woman matched me up with NC45 when my usual shade is NC25 ! i didnt realize it at the time and bought it as i was in a hurry! now back in Pakistan when i tried it on i look like a rotten orange!and whats worse is no one i know is dark enough to use the shade!
and now i think ok so you think Pakistani’s are dark but please give us a break we look at our complexions at least before recommending something…
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[...] – For more information on how to choose the right color foundation for you, click HERE [...]
If NARS is not easily available to you, would you recommend Christian Dior? What is your take on that product for its foundations?
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Lipstick Masala Reply:
April 20th, 2010 at 2:31 pm
Hi alias, I’m personally not a fan of Christian Dior but only because they don’t have a color match for me. However, if you can find a shade that suits your skin tone then definitely go for it. Try out the DiorSkin Nude Natural line – people seem to rave about it!
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