Lipstick Masala

It’s almost the most wonderful time of the year -New Year’s Eve – new beginnings, clean slates, and this year – a new decade. Because it’s the holidays and I know you have better things to do than listen to my ramblings, I’ll get straight down to business. For those of you heading out to the club or a friend’s party, you’ll surely want to get the right kind of makeup look to go with your sequined outfits. Later this week we’ll be sharing a quick basic smokey eye for those that want to bedazzle on Thursday night. For now, here’s a tutorial on how to get the perfect red lip without feathering, bleeding and smudging.

Choosing the perfect red color:

Many artists will tell you that women with warm undertones (most desis) look better with orange or brown based reds and that cooler undertones match up better with blue-based lipsticks. This guideline works great for majority of Caucasian women. However, I don’t think this “rule” is completely applicable when it comes to desi skin tones. Some of us are not yellow enough to wear orange-based lipsticks and some of us are too pale to pull off blue-based reds. I personally am warm-toned yet use a red lipstick that MAC labels as “blue-based” that looks absolutely fabulous on me.

You will probably never hear me say this again, but in terms of red lipstick – I say if you are somewhat comfortable with makeup, ignore the “rules” when it comes to picking a color and go with your instinct. However, if you are a red lipstick newbie, then start out by following the basic guidelines and see how those colors feel on you before experimenting. Go to the store and try on a variety of shades, the one that warms your complexion (i.e. you’re not left looking sallow, washed out or ashy) is the one to go with.

Consistency: Lipsticks come in many different textures. I personally love matte red lipsticks because it gives one’s look a touch of old Hollywood glamour (think Rita Hayworth).

• Matte: Not good for extremely dry lips. Best for women in their 20s/30s as they have less wrinkles around the lips.
• Creamy: Good for mature skins and dry skin types.
• Glossy: Great for all skin types and ages but doesn’t last as long. Too much gloss can also look scary in red, so better to stick to matte and creamy formulations.

How to wear:

- If you are going for a red lip look, remember to keep the rest of the face light! You want to look sophisticated, not like you belong in the Moulin Rouge.
- In our mothers’ day it was considered proper to match lipstick shades with your nails. This is no longer the case. Paint your nails a color that complements the red, not matches it. Try one of the black shades from OPI. If you must paint your nails red too, make sure the color matches exactly – avoid wearing two different shades of red.

- Don’t match your red lipstick with your red clothes. This look is dated and overkill – we’re all guilty of it! Again, choose a color that complements the red rather than matches it, like black, white, nude. You don’t want to look overdone. If you feel you must wear a red outfit with your red lipstick, coordinate carefully: 1) Make sure the color matches perfectly 2) Figure out the right clothing item to pair it with – red lipstick with red dress: dated, but doable… red lipstick with red sweater? this look is not just dated – it’s antiquated. Match up the lipstick instead with your purse or your shoes.

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And finally: Achieving the Perfect Bold Red Lip Look.

You may be thinking, “What’s the big deal about applying red lipstick, it takes two seconds” Sure, it takes two seconds if you want it to look sloppy and fade within the hour. The key ingredient to a great red lip is a result that is crisp and polished and doesn’t wear off easily (think Marilyn Monroe versus the aunty at the wedding with a red ring around her lips and the rest of her lipstick on her biryani fork).

This tutorial uses matte lipstick because that’s my favorite, but you can use a creamy lip color to achieve the same effect. Please excuse the yellow tinge in the photos – the lighting in my bathroom is awful!

What you will need:

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Steps:

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1) Make sure your lips are clean and dry.

2) Bold colors like red draw attention to and accentuate your lips, so it’s important to make sure your mouth is well moisturized. If you have time, we recommend exfoliating your lips to remove any flaky winter buildup (click HERE for more info).

3) Apply a nice thick layer of chapstick to your lips and let it soak in for a few minutes. Moisturizing helps the lipstick glide on better and plumps up the lips.

4) Blot your lips against a piece of toilet paper to remove any excess. This will allow your lips to remain soft without being greasy.

5) Apply a thin layer of your concealer or foundation over your lips. This provides 1) a base for your lipstick to stick to so it won’t fade easily 2) Most women have some kind of pigment in their lips, especially desi girls. The concealer helps cover the pigment, providing a blank canvas for the lipstick’s true color to show.

6) Lip liner: Tip 1: If you’re using your pencil to only outline your lips, then it is important you find a liner that matches your lipstick color perfectly, or when the lipstick wears off you will be left with a noticeable ring around your mouth. Tip 2: If you are using the liner to liner your entire mouth (as I am in this post) you can choose a lighter color if the red is too dark for you or a darker liner if the red is too light. In this tutorial I am using a darker red to warm up the lipstick color I am using.

Begin by lining the outer edges of your mouth. (Some artists feel it is easier to start from the center of the mouth in, but I personally feel this is easier for me as it gives me a guideline right off the bat). Then, fill in your entire lip so that your whole mouth is covered with lip liner. This provides yet another base for your lipstick to stick to and accentuates the color.

7) Apply the first coat of your lipstick over the liner. Don’t worry about not being accurate, as we will clean it up in a bit.

Using another piece of toilet paper, blot your lipstick.

9) Take the last piece of toilet paper and pull the two layers apart. This is a trick I learned from makeup artist Eve Pearl and it works fabulously. Place one half against your lips, dip your powder brush into your powder, and lightly dust it against your lips. The paper barrier will prevent your lips from getting too powdery and what comes through will give your lipstick long-lasting power.

10) Now, reach for your lipstick and apply a second coat. Again, don’t care about being perfect – we’ll be cleaning it in the next step.

11) Almost done – it’s clean up time. The key to a red lip is clean edges, which can be achieved in two ways – makeup remover and concealer.

If you use makeup remover:
- Fill a cap with remover that is not oil-based or moisturizing (the oil will make your lipstick smear and slide).
- Dip your concealer brush in the remover and then swipe along the edges of your lip line to clear away any stray red.

If you use concealer:
- Tap your brush into your concealer and wipe away any red along the edges of your lip line. The concealer acts like a great eraser.
- If you choose to use concealer, remember to blend the concealer in using a q-tip so you don’t have an obvious line around your mouth.

12) Et voilà! You’re done. Just remember to pair a bright red lip with minimal makeup – most artists generally only use blush and mascara, but if you’re a fan of eyeliner you can use it on your upper lid to add a little oomph. Anything more than that will leave you looking like a clown.

Happy Holidays, ladies! Stay tuned for our quick smokey eye tutorial before New Year’s Eve!

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Photo Credits:
http://www.beautynewsnyc.com/beauty/facing-your-beauty-fears/
http://trend911.com/category/face/