Lipstick Masala

Last Spring, I chopped off nearly ten inches of the hair I had so painstakingly grown out for two years. It was a bit drastic, and I wept for my lost locks for days. But, it was a much-needed change. For me, Spring is about reinvention. Even though I trim my hair several times a year, the Spring appointment with my stylist is the one where I experiment with new lengths, shapes and colors. After the last remnants of winter have faded away, I embrace a new look, a new season and a way to set the trend for how I plan to look for the rest of the year.

For those of you that, like me, have grown weary of your signature coif, there are dozens of trends you can try out in the Spring 2010 season. However, before you arrive at your salon with a ripped out magazine page of Reese Witherspoon’s new haircut, you must keep one important detail in mind – your face shape. Thousands of ladies each year are on the receiving end of a disastrous haircut, not because their stylist was snip happy with the scissors, but because they didn’t realize how different their bone structure was from said actress in the magazine photo.

So, ladies, before you venture out to reinvent yourself, here’s a quick breakdown on how to choose the right cut for your face type. You don’t want to spend the rest of the summer in a ponytail hiding the catastrophe that is your new hair ‘do.

Although there are dozens of face types, the four most common face shapes are: long/oval, round, heart and square.

If you have a long/oval shaped face (think Sarah Jessica Parker and Kate Beckinsale, Giselle Bundchen):

Those who have long/oval shaped faces are lucky in that they can pull off a number of hairstyles. The key though, is to create the illusion of width in order to draw attention away from the length of the face.

To create width:

-       Never part your hair down the middle; it will make your face appear longer than it actually is. Part your hair to the side to soften your look.

-       If you have wavy hair, put down the straightening iron. Wavy hair adds volume to the face and again, gives an illusion of width.

-       If you have naturally straight hair, try longer, side swept bangs to break up the length straight hair adds to your face.

How much to chop off:

-       Try to avoid excessively long hair, but if you must grow it out, kept the front layers much shorter than the ones in the back (think of your hair as a V shape). The shorter layers will frame your face and you will still have the length to play with at the back.

-       Long/Oval faced girls look great with bobs. Because the hairline hits right at the chin, another illusion of width is created.

-       As we said earlier, go for side-swept bangs, or even blunt bangs at the eyebrow as they give an illusion of width by creating a break in the face.

If you have a round face (think Renee Zellweger and Drew Barrymore):

Round-faced women generally have softer features that need to be angled with the right cut. It is important to create a style that gives the illusion of having a longer face and slightly sharper features.

To create length:

-       The more to the side that you part your hair, the more it will draw attention to your face shape. Try to part your hair in the center to create an illusion of length. If you absolutely hate a line down the center of your hair, then part your tresses slightly off center but no more than that.

-       If you have long hair, ask your stylist to give you long layers that start below your chin. Anything shorter than that will draw attention to the width near your cheekbones and temples.

-       If you have short hair, have your stylist take weight off near the ends to give you a softer, wispier look. The volume should be near the top of your head, not at the bottom.

How much to chop off:

-       Round-faced girls tend to look better with longer cuts as the length draws attention away from the width of the face and defines the features.

-       Stay away from any blunt cuts or bangs, as they will make your face look rounder.

-       If you want bangs, stick to ones that are side-swept. If you absolutely MUST have straight bangs that sit on your forehead, make sure they are wispy and light and not heavy and blunt. See that they sit slightly below the brows to give a lengthening effect.

If you have a heart-shaped face (think Reese Witherspoon and Jennifer Love Hewitt):

Women with heart-shaped faces are the luckiest of the bunch, as most hairstyles they choose will work with their bone structure. Because your face is widest at the forehead, the key is to create volume near the bottom of the hair rather than at the top.

To create volume near the ends:

-       If you love short hair, try out a chin length bob with layers that fall near the ends rather than near your ears. You will rock a blunt cut.

-       If you are a fan of long hair, ask for layers that fall at or below your cheekbones.

-       Try to avoid any really choppy haircuts unless your hair is super long. Choppy layers should fall much below your chin as you’re trying to create volume near the chin area.

-       You look great with both side-swept and bangs that sweep the brow.

How much to chop off:

-       Go ahead and play with whichever length of hair you like. Heart-shaped faces look great in bobs, shoulder-length and long hairstyles.

If you have a square face (think Salma Hayek and Rosario Dawson):

Ladies with square faces generally have strong jaw lines. Cheeks and jaws are generally the same width or near the same width as the forehead. The key to choosing a hairstyle for square faces is to soften the angles of the face.

To soften your features:

-       Keep your hair wavy or curly if you can. The natural body will help soften your jaw line.

-       Try to stay away from any choppy or blunt hairstyles, as they will draw attention to your jaw.

-       Stick to hairstyles that are soft and airy, with wispy layers that start at or below your cheeks to soften the angles.

-       Try to avoid blunt bangs. Longer, side-swept bangs actually soften your face so go for those.

-       Part your hair to the side to additionally soften your features.

-       Avoid severely pulled back ponytails. These will only draw attention to your square bone structure.

How much to chop off:

Women with square faces tend to look best with longer hair. Try face-framing layers and side-swept bangs. If you must have short hair, make sure you have a little wave or curl in your hair to counteract any harsh attention to your jaw line.

If you’re not sure what face type you have, ask your stylist to help you out – after all that’s what they’re there for. Hopefully you have a stylist that will caution you if you’re going against what will look good with your face type. If not, time to shop for another one – I recommend yelp.com!

Good luck ladies, I’ll be back with an update after my own Friday haircut appointment!

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Photo Credits:
http://www.sessionmagazine.com/beautiful-hair-styling/
http://socialitelife.celebuzz.com/archive/2007/09/21/sarah_jessica_parker_experiences_death_by_flower.php
http://www.myhairstylingtools.com/blog/2009/10/
http://www.realistichair.com/store/index.php?cPath=21_25
http://www.thefashionablehousewife.com/02/2010/valentines-day-outfit-ideas/