Ten years ago, when the countdown to the new Millennium began, I sat on the Washington Mall bundled up in three layers of clothes watching Bill Clinton and Ricky Martin ring in the New Year. I was so cold I could barely enjoy the huge fireworks display over the Potomac River. A decade later, I choose to avoid any outdoor festivities and instead stay inside with my friends, in the warmth of central heating and a comfy couch under my behind. This year, instead of picking out which down jacket will keep me the coziest, my biggest dilemma is whether or not to coordinate my sparkly shirt with dark lips or eyes.

For those of you contemplating a smokey eye look for New Year’s Eve but not comfortable with the technique, I’ve broken down a basic tutorial that’s both quick and easy. Don’t be afraid! What’s great about the smokey look is that you can adapt it to any color, and best of all, it doesn’t have to be perfectly tidy! The concept of “smokey” doesn’t apply to one specific look or color, rather, it is the blending technique used to “smoke out” an eye shadow. So, go ahead and use any combination you wish to!

This tutorial should take practiced hands about 5 minutes and beginners no more than 10-15. Don’t worry about perfecting each step – when it’s time to clean up and bring the look together, we will!

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What You’ll Need:

Prep: under eye cream, concealer

Shadows*: 4 = brown, black, shimmery gold or copper and light beige shimmer for highlighting the brow bone

Pencils: brown and black

Tools*: Small eye shadow brush, smudge brush, Ponytail (blending) brush, concealer brush, q-tips

Mascara

*The reason I use brown and black together is that brown helps to blend and also softens the harsh contrast of black on the face. Brown and black together also give desi skin tones a warmer, soft look. You can substitute these shades for whatever you wish, just remember to use the darker shadows on the outer corners and the lighter ones on the inner lid!

*If you don’t have some the tools you can substitute them with other items. For example, if you don’t have a smudge brush you can use the sponge that comes on the back end of an eyeliner brush, and if you don’t have a concealer brush use your fingers! The ponytail brush (or blending brush) is hard to substitute, if you have a large fluffy shadow brush that should work as a replacement.

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Steps:

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1) Make sure the eye area is clean. Use your under eye cream to prep the area.

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2) Using your concealer brush (or your finger if you don’t have one) spread your concealer on your lid as a base for your shadow to neutralize the color of your skin and to provide lasting powder to your eye makeup. If you prefer to use another primer, go ahead and use it here. I used TimeBalm concealer in medium/dark and Nars concealer brush.

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3) Take the brown eye pencil and draw a thick line on your upper lash line. Don’t worry about it being crooked; just make sure to get it in close to the lash line and between the lashes. Lift up your lid slightly and line the inner rim (make sure not to poke yourself!) – this process is called tight lining - it gives a fuller look to your lashes. I used Sephora Khol expert in “Brun Perfect.”

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4) Now, take your smudge brush (or replacement tool) and smudge the liner in an upward motion towards your crease (where your eyeball meets the brow bone). You should end up with the liner darkest near your lash line and lightest near the top of your lid (don’t go all the way up to the brown bone). I used the Sephora Professionnel smudge brush.

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5) Take your chocolate brown eye shadow and using the small shadow brush, apply it to the outer third of your lid. Don’t worry about messiness or accuracy; we’ll blend it out in a bit. I used Clinique high impact eye shadow quad in “Toast of the Town” and the MAC 213 shadow brush.

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6) Next, using the same brush, pick up the black shadow and apply it to the outer edge and along the crease as shown below. Your “V” should be in line with the end of your eyebrow (note the pink dots in the photo below). I used MAC “print” shadow.

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7) Grab your ponytail brush, or blending brush and begin to smooth out the lines. Use a light hand. The best way to do this is: on the lid where the shadows meet, switch between side-to-side sweeps and circular motions and gently buff out any visible lines that you see. The key is to blend blend blend. Then, on the crease use more of a side-to-side (windshield wiper) motion to soften the harshness of the black. Again, don’t worry about being too messy; we’ll clean it up. I used MAC’s 224 brush.

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Use your small shadow brush and pick up some of the lighter beige color and sweep it along your brown bone to highlight it. I used MAC “Naked Lunch” shadow.

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9) Take your ponytail brush and gently blend out the highlighter shadow so the black shadow underneath fades into the highlight.

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10) At this point, you will see shadow fallout underneath your eyes and on the side of your eyes near your temples. Take your q-tip and slightly dampen it with water. Clean up the side of your eye so you get back the V shape. Use the tip to soften and blend the edges so they don’t look too sharply defined.

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11) Take another q-tip and clean the bottom of your eyes under your lower lashes.

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12) Now, apply the concealer under your eyes. We wait to do this until this step because if you apply concealer earlier, you will end up having to remove it anyway because of fallout from your darker shadows.

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13) Using your small shadow brush, pick up a little of the same black you used for the crease and tap off the excess on your hand so you have no more shadow fallout. Brush a thin line connecting the outer V to your lower lash line. Continue to line under your eye until your lashes end.

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14) Soften and blend the line on your lower lashes using a q-tip.

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15) Take your black eye pencil and line your inner rim. Then use the small shadow brush and pat down the liner with the same black shadow you just used. This will soften the look and help your liner stay on longer. I have not used liner on my upper lids in this tutorial because it was a bit much for me personally. The shadow and tight lining of your inner rims is enough to attract attention to your eyes. But, if you feel you need a little more oomph, add the liner after step 17 before you apply your mascara. I used Sephora Waterproof Kohl et Contour in “Keep Black.”

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16) Almost done. The final shadow step is to add a slight glimmer to the center where your lid catches the light. Your best choice would be to use a golden/bronze shadow here that is luminous but not over the top glittery. The gold/bronze accents the brown and most desi skin tones (contrary to popular belief, I think very few of us look good in silver!). Tap your shadow brush into the pan and then apply to the center of your lid from the crease to the lash line. If you feel you need to blend it you can, but this color should melt into the others after a few minutes by itself. I used MAC “Woodwinked” shadow.

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17) Using the same shadow, line the inner V of your eye for a little extra pop.

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18) Apply Mascara. Remember to clean the inner eye where the shadow gathers with a q-tip! I used Imju Fiberwig mascara.

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Et Voilà! You’re all done! Just remember, if you’re going with dark eyes keep your lips toned down – nude lips look the best!

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Have a wonderful New Year’s Eve, ladies. See you all in 2010!!!

Photo Credit: themineralista.com

makeup was said to be natural, most cosmetics lines used cheap fillers and chemicals to help adhere the products to the skin. I quickly backed away from the mineral products and continued to shell out $$$ for sub-par products.

It was then that I discovered a product line called, The Mineralista (www.themineralista.com), created by one of our very own, a South Asian woman with a vision and the solution to my makeup woes. The Mineralista currently focuses on mineral pigments that can be used as shadows, blush, and are even mixable with clear polish to create multiple fun and funky shades for your nails. The line began as a personal venture for the founder who, like me, was appalled when she learned most shadows had a 90% chemical content and so set out to create natural products for herself and her friends. The shadows quickly gained popularity in her community, and she soon decided to create a line for the public. Lucky for us!

The products have received great feedback from women of all skin types and tones – fair or dark, dry or oily- and I was recently given the opportunity to try some out. So does the Mineralista live up to my expectations? Read on for a complete product breakdown from the outside to the inside.

Packaging:

Ladies, I know some of you like to pretend color and consistency of a product is more important than its outer shell, but almost all of us smile when the box is as pretty as the shade and easy to manage. I have to say I was pleasantly surprised when I received my Mineralista products in the mail. Packaged neatly in a transparent black sheath, the jars of shadow were smartly stacked one on top of the other and topped off with a personal contact card of the owner herself.

The shadows come in two sizes, the full size version 5g jar and a smaller plastic casing for sample sizes. When one thinks of mineral pigments, the term “messy” comes to mind. However, the Mineralista packaging works to combat spilled powder. Each full sized jar comes with a nifty sifter – which means you can tap out just a little amount a time without getting the color all over your hands and clothes. Major plus points for the Mineralista.

The Shades:

Mineralista pigments are available in an extensive range of over 40 different shades, both as singles and in collections. For those of you that love experimenting with color, check out the Skittles Collection – an assortment of fruity flavored colors to make your eyes pop. If you are a little intimidated by washing your whole eye with the vibrant shades, try using them as liners – I’ve received great compliments on using Berry Punch and Blue Raspberry in this manner (I think these two might be my favorite of the skittles). For the record – I own four purple MAC shadows and none of them complement my skin the way the Mineralista Berry Punch does.

L to R: Banana Berry, Chilli Berry, Mango Tangelo, Kiwi Lime, Blue Raspberry, Sour Raspberry, and Berry Punch

Some of the other colors I tried include: “Intuition” (blue-purple with amped up shimmer, perfect for a night on the town), “Black Out” (I like my blacks as dark as possible and this lives up to its name – great buy for a smoky eye), “Coralicious” (beige-y pink with lots of shimmer, great to use on your cheekbones), “Copper” (this one is a mix between gold and bronze, perfect for all those desi weddings you’ll be attending this Fall), “Smut” (the color is almost indescribable – a brown-y purple pink but perfect with Black out for smoky eyes), “Chameleon” (a light brown with greenish shimmer), and finally my favorite, “Amber” (the name speaks for itself, it’s perfect as a highlighter and for weddings.

L to R: Smut, Amber, Black Out, Copper, Chameleon, Coralicious and Intuition

I was also given a sample of the “Kiss of Gold,” perfect for highlighting and to dab on top of gloss for a little shimmer in the center of your lower lip.

Overall I was impressed with the color payout. Some of the shades had a little more shimmer than I like but the intensity of the pigments made up for that. Also, applying the pigments wet slightly mattified the shadows and further brought out the color (more on that in a bit).

Ingredients:

Did you know that some mineral makeup companies use cheap fillers like talc and Bismuth Oxychloride that cause reactions in many women? Rest assured ladies, the Mineralista prides itself on using natural ingredients for their products.

Lasting Power and Application:

Photo Credit: urbandecay.com

Be sure to use an eye makeup primer before applying the Mineralista products. Because they don’t use any harmful chemical fillers, it is important to give them a surface to adhere to. For more information on primers click HERE.

There are two ways to use the shadows – wet and dry. When applied wet, or foiled (for more on how to foil click HERE), the colors stay true to their packaging and last all evening long – oily skinned girls, you may rejoice! If you would like to use them the regular way, once again I would recommend using an eye primer. Personally, I felt the dry application rubbed off much sooner than the wet application and I love the way the shadows look foiled. However, others have had much success with using the shadows dry so try both ways out for yourself! Also as I said before, some of you may not like too much shimmer – this is easily combated with a little foiling. Finally, the light airy texture of the pigments means you won’t feel heavily made up!

Colors LM recommends for the Desi girl:

As I said, Berry Punch and Blue Raspberry are two of my favorites. Also check out the Molten Metals Collection, which includes Merlot, Alloy, Copper and Treasure – must-haves for every desi girl’s makeup collection. If you’re a fan of browns – try out a sample of the Truffle – chocolate brown with gold shimmer – perfect for creases or a brown smoky eye.

Molten Metals Collection Photo Credit: themineralista.com

Pricing:

I saved the best for the end. Each full-sized sifter jar costs $6 – a little goes a long way and you are given enough product to last a very very long time. If you are unsure of a color and don’t want to shell out the full $$$, almost all shadows are available in generous sample sizes for just $1.15. You can sample 13 different shadows at the Mineralista for the price of 1 shadow at MAC.

Sample Size Jars

Customer Service and Website:

I have to admit I was quick to discredit the product based on the website. If there were one thing I would recommend to the Mineralista, it would be to smooth out the design interface so its products aren’t passed over because of the “judging a book by its cover syndrome.” However, the company is just taking off so let’s cut them a little slack. The site is easy to navigate and payments are made securely through PayPal.

Good News: The Mineralista ships both within the U.S. and Outside America for a flat fee. So those of you who do not live in the U.S. have a chance to try out the product, too! Check out the FAQ section on the website for details and information on other Customer Service questions. If you have any questions on the products or on which countries the company ships products to, the Mineralista is helpful and accommodating. Send any emails to sales@themineralista.com or follow them on twitter: www.twitter.com/themineralista .

Photo Credit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/pandacat_baby/

Final Verdict

The Mineralista is a company that keeps the prices low and quality high. The ingredients are natural and the colors are great for both desi and other skin tones. Check out the Looks section on the website for some ideas on colors. Overall, we were pleased with the product save a snag or two (in the shimmer and dry application), but there was nothing major to keep us from trying out more of their products. For $1.15 sample sizes and $6 full sized jars, what do you have to lose?!

Before you head over the Mineralista site, let us know your opinions – hit or miss? Will you be trying these products out? Also, look out for a future eye makeup tutorial using the Mineralista products!

After countless primers and pigments, I finally discovered “foiling,” which is essentially applying your shadow wet to create a vibrant, metallic sheen (hence the reference to the metallic foil). Now, some of you may be thinking “ew, why would I want disco ball lids?”

Don’t worry, like all makeup, there are varying degrees of intensity to foiling. You can foil your whole lids or simply your liner, you can choose to look like a drag queen or keep it simple and elegant like Penelope Cruz. If you do wish to stick to a light look, a little wet application can still transform your dull shadow – it won’t exactly be a “foil” look, but it will emphasize the color and texture of the product and allow your shadow to last longer rather than melt down your face in the summer.

Because there are many different looks that one can achieve by foiling, another post on application will follow this one in a few days. But first, it is important to get down the technique, which isn’t as simple as running your brush under the tap, as you run the risk of caking on too much product, looking streaky, and worst of all, damaging your precious eye shadows.

Tips to remember when starting out:

- Foiling is usually recommended for loose shadows and pigments, and some mineral shadows.

- Most pressed shadows (including those by MAC) are not supposed to be used for foiling because they will harden and crumble. However, if you wish to use your MAC shadows (I do all the time), you can get around this by picking up product from one side rather than the middle of the pot. This way you will be able to use the pressed shadow for both wet and dry application in the future without ruining it. I will show you what I mean a little further in this post.

- There are pressed shadows available (i.e. caked into a pot) that are specifically made for wet/dry application. You can find such wet/dry shadows in the drugstore by most brands including Revlon, Milani, and Wet’n’Wild, and in department stores by Lorac, Vincent Longo and some MAC artists agree their “mineralize” shadow is safe for wet application. You can freely add moisture to these without worrying about ruining the product.

- Try to use a regular shadow brush rather than one created specifically for wet/dry application. The wet/dry brushes retain a lot of water and can cause shadows to look cakey or streaky. You will have more control with a regular fibered brush.

- Foiling is usually done with shadows that have shimmery, pearly, and glimmery consistencies as these products bring out the metallic look on the eyelid. The use of matte shadows is not really considered “foiling” by most makeup artists as it doesn’t produce a metallic sheen, but you can still apply the technique to make the colors more vibrant.

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There are two main techniques artists use: dry application and direct wet application. Both methods require you to dampen your brush. Some people use water, others don’t like to because they feel water results in a cakey look and evaporates too quickly to work with.

Here are your options to wet your brush so choose the one below that is easiest for you. Remember, the idea is to dampen your brush – do not make it soaking! If the brush is too wet, you will end up with streaky, clumpy shadow.

- Spray your brush from afar with MAC Fix+ (an aqua-spritz of vitamin and minerals), or Evian spray. Gently swipe against a tissue to spread the moisture and get rid of any excess. You may need to spray more later as the moisture evaporates.

- Squeeze out some eye drops (preferably one, no more than two) and swirl your brush around to evenly distribute the liquid. Swipe against a clean tissue to get rid of excess.

- Swirl your brush onto a baby wipe. There is enough moisture to dampen your brush and is light enough so you won’t pick up too much. You may need to reuse the wipe repeatedly as your brush keeps drying.

- Lightly dip your brush in water. Squeeze out the excess water from the bristles with a towel. You may need to repeat this as water dries fast. I personally don’t like this technique as I think plain water makes the shadows slightly cakey.

- You can also use a mixing medium that is generally made up of a combination of glycerin and water, such as the one by MAC PRO, but can be difficult to find. There are recipes available online to create your own mixing medium so you can Google it if you’re interested, but I personally don’t feel comfortable using a concoction I made myself on my eyes.

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Dry application: This method is for ladies who a) are not too comfortable with eye shadow application b) want a more subtle look and c) are in a bit of a hurry and don’t have time to struggle with wet application. Also, this way is safe to use with any kind of shadow, loose or pressed, as you will not be adding any moisture to the actual product pot.

Step 1) Apply your primer, then shadow as normal. Make sure to blend in your creases and any lines between shadow colors.

Step 2) Before applying your liner and mascara, wet your brush in the method you have chosen.

Step 3) Begin to slowly yet firmly pat the brush against your shadow rather than in a brush stroke. Using brush strokes will ruin the applying and blending you spent time on in Step 1.

Result: The foiling is light, but still visible, and none of your shadow pots are ruined.

Direct wet application method: Best for ladies who a) love experimenting with bright colors b) are adept at blending and c) have some time for application. However, remember, even if you don’t want your shadows too bright you can still use this method, just apply less shadow for a sheerer look.

Step 1) Dampen your brush using your favorite method.

Step 2)

- If you are using loose shadows or pigments: Tap a little powder into a cap or little plate/bowl, or use the product that is stuck to the cap. Using your brush, pick up the product and then swirl it around against the surface to make sure the product is evenly distributed, has a slightly creamy consistency, and is not lumpy or you will end up with cakey makeup.

-       If you want to be a brave soul and use your regular shadows, remember to only use ONE side of the shadow (as noted in photo below) every time you do a wet application. The dry side as indicated in the photo is to only be used for dry shadow application. The reason for this is that once you wet a part of a shadow, it changes consistency and can no longer be used for dry application, only for wet. This is why it’s important to keep both sides separate. Swirl your brush into that part of your shadow so the product is distributed evenly.

Step 3) After using primer, apply product directly to your lids as you would normal shadow. You will most likely need to re-dampen your brush as you start to fill up your eyelid and the moisture evaporates. Remember, it is a bit difficult to blend wet shadows. I try to blend the shadow while it still has some tackiness, while others find it easier to wait until the shadows completely dry before blending, You will have to experiment to see which works best for you, just remember to apply slightly more pressure than you normally would. It is more important to blend your wet shadows than dry because the increased pigment and consistency means lines are more visible than with dry application.

Everyone has their own favorite products and foiling techniques. Don’t be intimidated – it really is a lot simpler than it looks. Once you get the hang of it, you will most likely adopt your own methods. We will be back with some application tips/wet looks for you to see. For now, try it out and let us know how it looks, and if you’ve tried it then share your results!

Woodwinked is on lid and lined under eye. Photo Credit: www.flickr.com/silentcharon

I used to spend hours getting ready. I took so long that my entire family still teases me to this day – if we have to go out at 9, my sister knocks on my door at 4 and asks me “aren’t you running late?” I loved experimenting with different colors and cosmetics and would spend forever painstakingly making sure every hair was in place. But, as I grew older and time seemed to move at a faster pace, I didn’t have the luxury of spending half an hour on my eye makeup. I wanted an eye shadow that I could use in a hurry for when I went out in the evenings that looked good just by itself, without me having to apply three different shadows at once, as well as something that looked phenomenal with almost anything. I literally kissed the MAC counter when I found Woodwinked.

Ladies, trust me when I say that Woodwinked is one of the most important eye shadows you will own. Woodwinked is part of the Veluxe Pearl shadow line and is described by MAC to be a “warm antique gold.” I know a lot of Desi girls who own this one, and pretty much all of them seem to love and swear by it.

Very few eye shadows can be worn alone (unless it’s a neutral color for something like work). Wearing just one shade of shadow gives the eye a very flat look as it does not accentuate the right areas to make your eyes seem brighter, rounder, whatever you wish. This can make you appear washed out, or worse, scary-looking (think blue eye shadow without any blending – yikes!). However, the multidimensional shine of Woodwinked gives the appearance of having blended two or more eye shadows together, it’s not absolutely perfect by itself, but if you’re in a hurry, you can simply apply a wash of the color all over your lid with a little black eye liner in the inner rims of your eyes and you’re good to go. It’s also a great eye shadow to use when doing a gold/black smoky eye (for those who have been asking for eye tutorials, one will be coming up soon!).

Woodwinked suits pretty much all skin tones. And I mean all. My sisters and I represent three different South Asian color tones in the fair, medium, and dark skinned categories. It looks good on ALL of us. It’s great for going out to parties, clubs, dinners, and weddings. Once you try it on, it will most likely become a staple in your makeup collection.

Lastly, and most importantly, not only is it a time saver and a flattering color, but if you’re not particularly skillful at applying eye makeup, this eye shadow will save you from a lot of frustration. It’s basically a swipe and go.

Those of you that already own Woodwinked, feel free to share your thoughts with the rest of the girls. I have been hearing from a lot of you that you feel shy about commenting, but please don’t hesitate to say what’s on your mind – the idea is to be a part of a community and for all the readers to help each other out – there are no silly questions!

Happy Friday!