Photo Credit: www.planetbollywood.com

For those of us who grew up watching Bollywood movies in the early 90s, the image of Madhuri Dixit smiling and dancing across the screen is still quite clear in our minds. But, for those of us who were into makeup even back then, the awful three inch thick foundation caked on her face is an even more vivid memory. As we entered the age of high-definition television and digital cameras, cosmetics companies began working harder at providing us with weightless makeup that made the foundation from the 1990s look like it belonged in the 1890s. Yes, we are lucky to be living in this age, but an HD lifestyle means we need to be all the more careful about finding the right color foundation, or our makeup blunders will be forever captured and posted for all to see on the latest social networking site (evidence: the foundation faux pas I shared with you in my last post).

Choosing the right foundation shade can be nerve-wracking, but there are a few tried and tested ways to make it (slightly) easier. Let me begin by saying, girls, please, do NOT let department store sales assistants pressure you into buying a foundation before you have tested it out the right way! They may mean well and seem to know what they’re talking about, but only you and those who are familiar with your features (a sister, a close friend) can truly determine if a color is right for you and your daily needs. Trust me, I’ve been through a LOT of different foundations. And by a lot, I mean almost every brand out there. Don’t stop until you find the perfect one!

The first step to choosing the right color is to determine the undertone of your skin. Most people automatically assume that because they have brown skin, they have yellow undertones. This is not always the case, many Desis tend to have pink undertones as well. There are several ways to determine your tone. Some makeup artists suggest looking at the veins on the inside of your wrist. If the veins are blue, you are pink-toned, and if they are green you are yellow-toned. If you cannot make out the color, then you are most likely neutral-toned. Another technique is to first wash your face, pat it dry and place a white towel around your neck. Inspect your skin in the bathroom mirror and you should be able to make out your tone against the contrast of the towel. Buying a foundation based on your undertone helps to prevent you from looking pale and washed-out or kind of dirty (à-la-Lindsay Lohan).

Now, while I agree it’s key to determine your undertone, it’s also important to remember this is only a starting point. For example, not all Bobbi Brown foundations (which are mostly yellow-toned) will suit you just because you have green veins. A couple of years ago I had a makeover done at Bobbi Brown and was contemplating buying the foundation they matched me with. I have very yellow skin so I assumed it would look great – that is, until my mother saw me and asked if I had jaundice and needed to go to the doctor. I washed it right off.

Photo Credit: narscosmetics.com

Photo Credit: www.makemeheal.com

The next step is to try out a few different brands. Don’t restrict yourself to a cosmetics company just because it suits some of your other South Asian friends. A lot of Desi girls tend to gravitate toward MAC Cosmetics, which has gained a reputation of catering to women of color. A few years ago, MAC was the go-to brand in foundation for almost all skin tones. That may have been true then, but ladies, times have changed. Although you may not know it because cosmetics companies do a shoddy job at advertising for South Asian women, many brands have recently been dedicated to adding more shades to their makeup lines to cater to different ethnicities. While MAC may work for some, it did absolutely nothing for me – I either looked ashy or orange, they simply could not color match me. I turned to another company NARS that like MAC, focuses on women of color in their ad campaigns. I happened to find what I consider to by my perfect match and haven’t strayed yet. If you have the $$$ to spend, I would suggest checking out the Giorgio Armani line – the feel of their foundation is absolutely divine and their shade levels are pretty decent. If you’re a bit strapped for cash, drop by the Clinique counter, they are constantly introducing new formulations and colors. There are also brands created for women of ethnicity like Maven Cosmetics (the co-founders are Chinese and Pakistani), which we will be discussing later.

When actually trying on the foundations, you or the sales assistant should swipe three different shades of foundation in your color and skin tone range on your cheek (never match the color to your hand as your face color is very different). The one that melts into your skin and can barely be seen is the one for you. I know some girls are tempted to go for the lighter shades because it’s culturally encouraged, but ladies, we are no longer in the 80s – tan is beautiful. Also, you are not fooling anyone into thinking you have a lighter complexion, we can still see the rest of you

Alas, if only that were the end of it! The next step is actually the most important. What many people are unaware of is that your foundation color changes a little while after you first apply it. The oil in your moisturizer or skin (even if your skin is on the drier side), as well as using the wrong toned shade, can oxidize the foundation and change the shade. As a result, you may end up with orange-y looking skin. Similarly, if you buy too light of a shade, the color can start to look chalky and even though you might think it looks all right on your face, it is very visible against your neck.

Photo Credit: www.desifashionpolice.com

Finally, (yes finally!) you should ask to take a sample of the foundation home. Try it on yourself with your own blush and lipstick. Your foundation is not worn alone, it’s a base for the makeup you already own and therefore must complement it! Also, most cosmetic companies offer foundations in both oil-free and normal consistencies, so make sure you’re buying a color that’s right for your skin type (oily, acne-prone, dry, etc). Be sure to test your shade out in the day vs. the night, take a mirror outside your house and make sure you don’t look orange in the sunlight (yes, I’ve had that happen to me too). If you’re completely satisfied, then congratulations, you’re one of the 10% of girls who is actually happy with her foundation. If you’re like the rest of us and are not completely content, keep searching, there are many options – the world no longer revolves around MAC!

This may sound like a lot just to find a foundation, but as I said, your foundation is the base to the rest of your makeup. If your foundation is off, no lipstick or blush can make up for it, people won’t notice how great your eyes look – they WILL be focusing on your ashy/orange face, trust me. So, spending a little time searching for the right shade is worth it.

One last tip on foundation shades: no matter how dark-skinned you are, your skin color will change slightly with the seasons. Most people can’t use the same foundation color for winter and summer – some tan so much they need to move down two shades. Even if you look fabulous in the winter, you may be looking scary by summer. Do yourself a favor and consider looking into a second foundation when the weather gets warmer. You’ll save yourself the hassle of having to untag all your Facebook photos this summer.

Photo Credit: amean j. (www.ameanj.com)

Happy hunting!