Ten years ago, when the countdown to the new Millennium began, I sat on the Washington Mall bundled up in three layers of clothes watching Bill Clinton and Ricky Martin ring in the New Year. I was so cold I could barely enjoy the huge fireworks display over the Potomac River. A decade later, I choose to avoid any outdoor festivities and instead stay inside with my friends, in the warmth of central heating and a comfy couch under my behind. This year, instead of picking out which down jacket will keep me the coziest, my biggest dilemma is whether or not to coordinate my sparkly shirt with dark lips or eyes.

For those of you contemplating a smokey eye look for New Year’s Eve but not comfortable with the technique, I’ve broken down a basic tutorial that’s both quick and easy. Don’t be afraid! What’s great about the smokey look is that you can adapt it to any color, and best of all, it doesn’t have to be perfectly tidy! The concept of “smokey” doesn’t apply to one specific look or color, rather, it is the blending technique used to “smoke out” an eye shadow. So, go ahead and use any combination you wish to!

This tutorial should take practiced hands about 5 minutes and beginners no more than 10-15. Don’t worry about perfecting each step – when it’s time to clean up and bring the look together, we will!

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What You’ll Need:

Prep: under eye cream, concealer

Shadows*: 4 = brown, black, shimmery gold or copper and light beige shimmer for highlighting the brow bone

Pencils: brown and black

Tools*: Small eye shadow brush, smudge brush, Ponytail (blending) brush, concealer brush, q-tips

Mascara

*The reason I use brown and black together is that brown helps to blend and also softens the harsh contrast of black on the face. Brown and black together also give desi skin tones a warmer, soft look. You can substitute these shades for whatever you wish, just remember to use the darker shadows on the outer corners and the lighter ones on the inner lid!

*If you don’t have some the tools you can substitute them with other items. For example, if you don’t have a smudge brush you can use the sponge that comes on the back end of an eyeliner brush, and if you don’t have a concealer brush use your fingers! The ponytail brush (or blending brush) is hard to substitute, if you have a large fluffy shadow brush that should work as a replacement.

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Steps:

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1) Make sure the eye area is clean. Use your under eye cream to prep the area.

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2) Using your concealer brush (or your finger if you don’t have one) spread your concealer on your lid as a base for your shadow to neutralize the color of your skin and to provide lasting powder to your eye makeup. If you prefer to use another primer, go ahead and use it here. I used TimeBalm concealer in medium/dark and Nars concealer brush.

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3) Take the brown eye pencil and draw a thick line on your upper lash line. Don’t worry about it being crooked; just make sure to get it in close to the lash line and between the lashes. Lift up your lid slightly and line the inner rim (make sure not to poke yourself!) – this process is called tight lining - it gives a fuller look to your lashes. I used Sephora Khol expert in “Brun Perfect.”

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4) Now, take your smudge brush (or replacement tool) and smudge the liner in an upward motion towards your crease (where your eyeball meets the brow bone). You should end up with the liner darkest near your lash line and lightest near the top of your lid (don’t go all the way up to the brown bone). I used the Sephora Professionnel smudge brush.

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5) Take your chocolate brown eye shadow and using the small shadow brush, apply it to the outer third of your lid. Don’t worry about messiness or accuracy; we’ll blend it out in a bit. I used Clinique high impact eye shadow quad in “Toast of the Town” and the MAC 213 shadow brush.

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6) Next, using the same brush, pick up the black shadow and apply it to the outer edge and along the crease as shown below. Your “V” should be in line with the end of your eyebrow (note the pink dots in the photo below). I used MAC “print” shadow.

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7) Grab your ponytail brush, or blending brush and begin to smooth out the lines. Use a light hand. The best way to do this is: on the lid where the shadows meet, switch between side-to-side sweeps and circular motions and gently buff out any visible lines that you see. The key is to blend blend blend. Then, on the crease use more of a side-to-side (windshield wiper) motion to soften the harshness of the black. Again, don’t worry about being too messy; we’ll clean it up. I used MAC’s 224 brush.

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Use your small shadow brush and pick up some of the lighter beige color and sweep it along your brown bone to highlight it. I used MAC “Naked Lunch” shadow.

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9) Take your ponytail brush and gently blend out the highlighter shadow so the black shadow underneath fades into the highlight.

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10) At this point, you will see shadow fallout underneath your eyes and on the side of your eyes near your temples. Take your q-tip and slightly dampen it with water. Clean up the side of your eye so you get back the V shape. Use the tip to soften and blend the edges so they don’t look too sharply defined.

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11) Take another q-tip and clean the bottom of your eyes under your lower lashes.

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12) Now, apply the concealer under your eyes. We wait to do this until this step because if you apply concealer earlier, you will end up having to remove it anyway because of fallout from your darker shadows.

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13) Using your small shadow brush, pick up a little of the same black you used for the crease and tap off the excess on your hand so you have no more shadow fallout. Brush a thin line connecting the outer V to your lower lash line. Continue to line under your eye until your lashes end.

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14) Soften and blend the line on your lower lashes using a q-tip.

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15) Take your black eye pencil and line your inner rim. Then use the small shadow brush and pat down the liner with the same black shadow you just used. This will soften the look and help your liner stay on longer. I have not used liner on my upper lids in this tutorial because it was a bit much for me personally. The shadow and tight lining of your inner rims is enough to attract attention to your eyes. But, if you feel you need a little more oomph, add the liner after step 17 before you apply your mascara. I used Sephora Waterproof Kohl et Contour in “Keep Black.”

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16) Almost done. The final shadow step is to add a slight glimmer to the center where your lid catches the light. Your best choice would be to use a golden/bronze shadow here that is luminous but not over the top glittery. The gold/bronze accents the brown and most desi skin tones (contrary to popular belief, I think very few of us look good in silver!). Tap your shadow brush into the pan and then apply to the center of your lid from the crease to the lash line. If you feel you need to blend it you can, but this color should melt into the others after a few minutes by itself. I used MAC “Woodwinked” shadow.

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17) Using the same shadow, line the inner V of your eye for a little extra pop.

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18) Apply Mascara. Remember to clean the inner eye where the shadow gathers with a q-tip! I used Imju Fiberwig mascara.

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Et Voilà! You’re all done! Just remember, if you’re going with dark eyes keep your lips toned down – nude lips look the best!

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Have a wonderful New Year’s Eve, ladies. See you all in 2010!!!

Choosing the perfect red color:

Many artists will tell you that women with warm undertones (most desis) look better with orange or brown based reds and that cooler undertones match up better with blue-based lipsticks. This guideline works great for majority of Caucasian women. However, I don’t think this “rule” is completely applicable when it comes to desi skin tones. Some of us are not yellow enough to wear orange-based lipsticks and some of us are too pale to pull off blue-based reds. I personally am warm-toned yet use a red lipstick that MAC labels as “blue-based” that looks absolutely fabulous on me.

You will probably never hear me say this again, but in terms of red lipstick – I say if you are somewhat comfortable with makeup, ignore the “rules” when it comes to picking a color and go with your instinct. However, if you are a red lipstick newbie, then start out by following the basic guidelines and see how those colors feel on you before experimenting. Go to the store and try on a variety of shades, the one that warms your complexion (i.e. you’re not left looking sallow, washed out or ashy) is the one to go with.

Consistency: Lipsticks come in many different textures. I personally love matte red lipsticks because it gives one’s look a touch of old Hollywood glamour (think Rita Hayworth).

• Matte: Not good for extremely dry lips. Best for women in their 20s/30s as they have less wrinkles around the lips.
• Creamy: Good for mature skins and dry skin types.
• Glossy: Great for all skin types and ages but doesn’t last as long. Too much gloss can also look scary in red, so better to stick to matte and creamy formulations.

How to wear:

- If you are going for a red lip look, remember to keep the rest of the face light! You want to look sophisticated, not like you belong in the Moulin Rouge.
- In our mothers’ day it was considered proper to match lipstick shades with your nails. This is no longer the case. Paint your nails a color that complements the red, not matches it. Try one of the black shades from OPI. If you must paint your nails red too, make sure the color matches exactly – avoid wearing two different shades of red.

- Don’t match your red lipstick with your red clothes. This look is dated and overkill – we’re all guilty of it! Again, choose a color that complements the red rather than matches it, like black, white, nude. You don’t want to look overdone. If you feel you must wear a red outfit with your red lipstick, coordinate carefully: 1) Make sure the color matches perfectly 2) Figure out the right clothing item to pair it with – red lipstick with red dress: dated, but doable… red lipstick with red sweater? this look is not just dated – it’s antiquated. Match up the lipstick instead with your purse or your shoes.

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And finally: Achieving the Perfect Bold Red Lip Look.

You may be thinking, “What’s the big deal about applying red lipstick, it takes two seconds” Sure, it takes two seconds if you want it to look sloppy and fade within the hour. The key ingredient to a great red lip is a result that is crisp and polished and doesn’t wear off easily (think Marilyn Monroe versus the aunty at the wedding with a red ring around her lips and the rest of her lipstick on her biryani fork).

This tutorial uses matte lipstick because that’s my favorite, but you can use a creamy lip color to achieve the same effect. Please excuse the yellow tinge in the photos – the lighting in my bathroom is awful!

What you will need:

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Blotting powder, concealer, chapstick, lipstick, lip liner, makeup remover (non-oily), powder brush, concealer brush, q-tips and toilet paper (3 pcs).

Steps:

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1) Make sure your lips are clean and dry.

2) Bold colors like red draw attention to and accentuate your lips, so it’s important to make sure your mouth is well moisturized. If you have time, we recommend exfoliating your lips to remove any flaky winter buildup (click HERE for more info).

3) Apply a nice thick layer of chapstick to your lips and let it soak in for a few minutes. Moisturizing helps the lipstick glide on better and plumps up the lips.

4) Blot your lips against a piece of toilet paper to remove any excess. This will allow your lips to remain soft without being greasy.

5) Apply a thin layer of your concealer or foundation over your lips. This provides 1) a base for your lipstick to stick to so it won’t fade easily 2) Most women have some kind of pigment in their lips, especially desi girls. The concealer helps cover the pigment, providing a blank canvas for the lipstick’s true color to show.

6) Lip liner: Tip 1: If you’re using your pencil to only outline your lips, then it is important you find a liner that matches your lipstick color perfectly, or when the lipstick wears off you will be left with a noticeable ring around your mouth. Tip 2: If you are using the liner to liner your entire mouth (as I am in this post) you can choose a lighter color if the red is too dark for you or a darker liner if the red is too light. In this tutorial I am using a darker red to warm up the lipstick color I am using.

Begin by lining the outer edges of your mouth. (Some artists feel it is easier to start from the center of the mouth in, but I personally feel this is easier for me as it gives me a guideline right off the bat). Then, fill in your entire lip so that your whole mouth is covered with lip liner. This provides yet another base for your lipstick to stick to and accentuates the color.

7) Apply the first coat of your lipstick over the liner. Don’t worry about not being accurate, as we will clean it up in a bit.

Using another piece of toilet paper, blot your lipstick.

9) Take the last piece of toilet paper and pull the two layers apart. This is a trick I learned from makeup artist Eve Pearl and it works fabulously. Place one half against your lips, dip your powder brush into your powder, and lightly dust it against your lips. The paper barrier will prevent your lips from getting too powdery and what comes through will give your lipstick long-lasting power.

10) Now, reach for your lipstick and apply a second coat. Again, don’t care about being perfect – we’ll be cleaning it in the next step.

11) Almost done – it’s clean up time. The key to a red lip is clean edges, which can be achieved in two ways – makeup remover and concealer.

If you use makeup remover:
- Fill a cap with remover that is not oil-based or moisturizing (the oil will make your lipstick smear and slide).
- Dip your concealer brush in the remover and then swipe along the edges of your lip line to clear away any stray red.

If you use concealer:
- Tap your brush into your concealer and wipe away any red along the edges of your lip line. The concealer acts like a great eraser.
- If you choose to use concealer, remember to blend the concealer in using a q-tip so you don’t have an obvious line around your mouth.

12) Et voilà! You’re done. Just remember to pair a bright red lip with minimal makeup – most artists generally only use blush and mascara, but if you’re a fan of eyeliner you can use it on your upper lid to add a little oomph. Anything more than that will leave you looking like a clown.

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Photo Credits:
http://www.beautynewsnyc.com/beauty/facing-your-beauty-fears/
http://trend911.com/category/face/

After countless primers and pigments, I finally discovered “foiling,” which is essentially applying your shadow wet to create a vibrant, metallic sheen (hence the reference to the metallic foil). Now, some of you may be thinking “ew, why would I want disco ball lids?”

Don’t worry, like all makeup, there are varying degrees of intensity to foiling. You can foil your whole lids or simply your liner, you can choose to look like a drag queen or keep it simple and elegant like Penelope Cruz. If you do wish to stick to a light look, a little wet application can still transform your dull shadow – it won’t exactly be a “foil” look, but it will emphasize the color and texture of the product and allow your shadow to last longer rather than melt down your face in the summer.

Because there are many different looks that one can achieve by foiling, another post on application will follow this one in a few days. But first, it is important to get down the technique, which isn’t as simple as running your brush under the tap, as you run the risk of caking on too much product, looking streaky, and worst of all, damaging your precious eye shadows.

Tips to remember when starting out:

- Foiling is usually recommended for loose shadows and pigments, and some mineral shadows.

- Most pressed shadows (including those by MAC) are not supposed to be used for foiling because they will harden and crumble. However, if you wish to use your MAC shadows (I do all the time), you can get around this by picking up product from one side rather than the middle of the pot. This way you will be able to use the pressed shadow for both wet and dry application in the future without ruining it. I will show you what I mean a little further in this post.

- There are pressed shadows available (i.e. caked into a pot) that are specifically made for wet/dry application. You can find such wet/dry shadows in the drugstore by most brands including Revlon, Milani, and Wet’n’Wild, and in department stores by Lorac, Vincent Longo and some MAC artists agree their “mineralize” shadow is safe for wet application. You can freely add moisture to these without worrying about ruining the product.

- Try to use a regular shadow brush rather than one created specifically for wet/dry application. The wet/dry brushes retain a lot of water and can cause shadows to look cakey or streaky. You will have more control with a regular fibered brush.

- Foiling is usually done with shadows that have shimmery, pearly, and glimmery consistencies as these products bring out the metallic look on the eyelid. The use of matte shadows is not really considered “foiling” by most makeup artists as it doesn’t produce a metallic sheen, but you can still apply the technique to make the colors more vibrant.

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There are two main techniques artists use: dry application and direct wet application. Both methods require you to dampen your brush. Some people use water, others don’t like to because they feel water results in a cakey look and evaporates too quickly to work with.

Here are your options to wet your brush so choose the one below that is easiest for you. Remember, the idea is to dampen your brush – do not make it soaking! If the brush is too wet, you will end up with streaky, clumpy shadow.

- Spray your brush from afar with MAC Fix+ (an aqua-spritz of vitamin and minerals), or Evian spray. Gently swipe against a tissue to spread the moisture and get rid of any excess. You may need to spray more later as the moisture evaporates.

- Squeeze out some eye drops (preferably one, no more than two) and swirl your brush around to evenly distribute the liquid. Swipe against a clean tissue to get rid of excess.

- Swirl your brush onto a baby wipe. There is enough moisture to dampen your brush and is light enough so you won’t pick up too much. You may need to reuse the wipe repeatedly as your brush keeps drying.

- Lightly dip your brush in water. Squeeze out the excess water from the bristles with a towel. You may need to repeat this as water dries fast. I personally don’t like this technique as I think plain water makes the shadows slightly cakey.

- You can also use a mixing medium that is generally made up of a combination of glycerin and water, such as the one by MAC PRO, but can be difficult to find. There are recipes available online to create your own mixing medium so you can Google it if you’re interested, but I personally don’t feel comfortable using a concoction I made myself on my eyes.

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Dry application: This method is for ladies who a) are not too comfortable with eye shadow application b) want a more subtle look and c) are in a bit of a hurry and don’t have time to struggle with wet application. Also, this way is safe to use with any kind of shadow, loose or pressed, as you will not be adding any moisture to the actual product pot.

Step 1) Apply your primer, then shadow as normal. Make sure to blend in your creases and any lines between shadow colors.

Step 2) Before applying your liner and mascara, wet your brush in the method you have chosen.

Step 3) Begin to slowly yet firmly pat the brush against your shadow rather than in a brush stroke. Using brush strokes will ruin the applying and blending you spent time on in Step 1.

Result: The foiling is light, but still visible, and none of your shadow pots are ruined.

Direct wet application method: Best for ladies who a) love experimenting with bright colors b) are adept at blending and c) have some time for application. However, remember, even if you don’t want your shadows too bright you can still use this method, just apply less shadow for a sheerer look.

Step 1) Dampen your brush using your favorite method.

Step 2)

- If you are using loose shadows or pigments: Tap a little powder into a cap or little plate/bowl, or use the product that is stuck to the cap. Using your brush, pick up the product and then swirl it around against the surface to make sure the product is evenly distributed, has a slightly creamy consistency, and is not lumpy or you will end up with cakey makeup.

-       If you want to be a brave soul and use your regular shadows, remember to only use ONE side of the shadow (as noted in photo below) every time you do a wet application. The dry side as indicated in the photo is to only be used for dry shadow application. The reason for this is that once you wet a part of a shadow, it changes consistency and can no longer be used for dry application, only for wet. This is why it’s important to keep both sides separate. Swirl your brush into that part of your shadow so the product is distributed evenly.

Step 3) After using primer, apply product directly to your lids as you would normal shadow. You will most likely need to re-dampen your brush as you start to fill up your eyelid and the moisture evaporates. Remember, it is a bit difficult to blend wet shadows. I try to blend the shadow while it still has some tackiness, while others find it easier to wait until the shadows completely dry before blending, You will have to experiment to see which works best for you, just remember to apply slightly more pressure than you normally would. It is more important to blend your wet shadows than dry because the increased pigment and consistency means lines are more visible than with dry application.

Everyone has their own favorite products and foiling techniques. Don’t be intimidated – it really is a lot simpler than it looks. Once you get the hang of it, you will most likely adopt your own methods. We will be back with some application tips/wet looks for you to see. For now, try it out and let us know how it looks, and if you’ve tried it then share your results!

Like many of you, I have been the victim of sales assistants at makeup counters that don’t want to take the time out or simply don’t know enough to explain the use of certain products. When I’ve asked the difference between loose and pressed powder, I’ve been told “oh, it’s just the consistency you prefer and what’s easier for you.” Ladies, this is not the case. Yes, ease of transportation and application is a vital point, but cosmetics companies would not waste time and energy finely milling powder into two different consistencies just because they are nice and want to give us a choice. There is more to the loose versus pressed decision.

Loose Powder:

- Used to initially set your makeup/foundation. Because of the fine particles, the loose version is made to melt into the skin rather than sit on top of it and to give your foundation a finished look.

- Consistency is very finely milled and fluffy like baby powder. Is not portable as most containers tend to leak, is better left at home.

- Because it is finally milled, loose powder looks more natural on the skin rather than the matte look from pressed powder.

- Contrary to popular belief, loose powder offers thicker coverage than pressed, as more amount of product can be picked up by your tools. The great thing about loose powder is that it is very buildable. Use a big, fluffy powder brush for sheer/light coverage, and a powder buff for heavier coverage.

Caution:
-    Some loose powders contain talc for oil control that may be drying for sensitive skins.
-    It is very easy to overdo it with loose powder. Applying more won’t prevent your face from greasing up later in the day if you have oil-prone skin. In this case, pressed powder is a good back up (see below).

LM Recommends:

Department Store: Laura Mercier Loose Setting Powder (limited color choice but is translucent rather than colored so goes with many skin tones) $34 and Nars Loose Powder, also $34.

Drugstore: L’Oreal Translucide Naturally Luminous Loose Powder $11.99 and NYC Smooth Skin Loose Powder $2.99

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Pressed Powder:

- Used more for touchups and covering up any shine throughout the day rather than for initially setting makeup. Because the powder is compressed, less product is picked up by puff or brush, resulting in lighter coverage than loose powder.

- Not as finely milled as loose powder so results in a matte look. Great for ladies who are active and prone to shine.

- Very portable due to compressed consistency, usually comes with sponge and attached mirror for ease in application on the go

- If you wish to use pressed powder to set your makeup, it’s best to use a fluffy brush to buff into the skin rather than a sponge or puff that will absorb most of the pressed powder.

- When shine appears, first blot excess oil with a tissue and then apply pressed powder touchup, or result will be cakey.

Caution: Although pressed powder is more portable and generally costs less than loose powder, the product is less finely milled to be pressed into a cake and inserted into plastic packaging. This means oils and bonding ingredients like waxes are used to make the powder compact. Pressed powder, therefore, usually results in more clogged pores than loose powder. Also, most users place their dirty sponge right back into the compact after using it, which means more bacteria and breakouts.

LM Recommends:

Department Store: MAC Pressed Blot Powder $21 and Origins Silk Screen $24.50

Drugstore: Maybelline Dream Matte Powder $8.49 and L’Oreal True Match Powder $10.95

Remember: If you use a cream-to-powder or liquid-to-powder foundation you do not need a separate setting powder, only for touchups. Once you’ve chosen a consistency that’s right for you, make sure to find a color that is very close to your original skin tone or half a shade darker. Never go lighter! Powder isn’t just for setting makeup – foundation can make the skin seem lifeless, and powder can work to add a little warmth back into the face. Just make sure not to go too dark or orange – or you’ll end up looking like Paris Hilton, or worse, Lindsay Lohan. Not cute.

But, before you excitedly reach for your favorite makeup brush, stop for a minute and inspect the consistency of your blush. What most ladies tend to forget is that just as with products like foundation and eyeliner, it is important to find the right formula for your cheeks before settling on a color. The wrong consistency can exacerbate red, bumpy skin while the right one can give off the impression of “just coming in from the cold” winter cheeks.

We are given a myriad of options when it comes to blush: cream, liquid, creamy liquid, cream sticks, stains, tints, powder, the list is endless. So, which one to choose? The answer is a mixture of preference, weather and most important, skin type.

Here are the three main categories:

Liquid:

This category includes tints and stains and gels. Some artists claim this is the most natural looking product as it “sinks” into the skin. Make sure to start out slow and apply a little product, then build it up as you go along, as it is hard to remove.

Pros: Stays put in high heat, does not slide off your face by the end of the day (long lasting power), natural looking flush, can also be used as a lip tint.

Cons: Have to work fast to apply as it is difficult to blend, will stain your fingers along with your cheeks, if you have bad skin will emphasize your spots.

Great for: Oily-skinned gals
Avoid: Dry-Skinned ladies (will emphasize any flakiness, is not moisturizing in the least)

We recommend: “Cheek Stain” by Tarte and “BeneTint” by Benefit, both available at sephora.com

Cream:

Includes sticks, pots and tubes. The best choice for a “dewy” look, great all year round, but especially youthful and fresh looking for the spring/summer.

Pros: Easy to apply and blend, if too much is applied is easy to remove, moisturizing, most have good lasting power

Cons: Can look caked on if not applied or blended correctly, can make skin look oily in humid climates

Great for: Dry-skinned and mature skin types
Avoid: Oily-skinned gals (the moisturizing properties will make you look shinier than a disco ball)

We recommend: “Cream Blush” by Revlon and “Crème Blush” by MAC, revlon.com and maccosmetics.com, respectively.

Powder:

The most commonly used blush available mostly in pressed and loose powder forms as well as minerals. Extremely wide variety of pigments and ranges from fine to regularly milled consistency.

Pros: Matte finish, easy to apply and blend, can be built up and blotted off if too much excess, great for both warm and cold climates

Cons: Lasting power can vary greatly from product to product, but generally not as long lasting as cream and liquid, more “made up” look than cream and liquid, can appear cakey or clownish if too much applied

Great for: Both Oily-Skinned (will help reduce shine) and Dry-Skinned (do not exacerbate flakiness) ladies

We Recommend: NARS for the deep pigments and Milani for the price, narscometics.com and milanicosmetics.com, respectively.

Lipstick Masala Suggests: Because summer is here and light, fresh looks are all the rage, set aside your normal powder and try out the liquid and cream blushes. Once you have determined the consistency that is right for you, choose a shade that reflects the colors of the season we’ve shared with you, i.e. girly pinks and corals, and leave the darker colors for when the cool air sets in. Happy hunting!

The first mistake most girls make is in picking the wrong consistency of concealer, understandable seeing as there are enough options out there to confuse anyone. Textures range anywhere from dry, solid sticks to creamy pots to tubes and wands of liquidy cover-up. So what is the best choice for you? Several factors come to play in this decision, your age, your skin type, what exactly you are trying to conceal and obviously, your skin tone.

Types of Concealer

Solid Stick:
Description: Most companies that make these concealers claim they are lightweight with a creamy consistency. The truth is, these products are generally drier than other forms of concealer. These are best for younger skins, as concealer sticks tend to almost settle in fine lines. They are easy to apply because of the packaging and can be carried in your purse for touch-ups, but make sure to blend blend blend as this formula is thick and can make your flaws stand out if not properly applied. However, it is also the best for dark circles thanks to the thicker coverage.

Our recommendations: The Bobbi Brown face touch up stick for the creaminess and the NARS concealer for the desi tone color match. We are not fans of MAC studio stick concealer – almost everyone we know has gotten panda eyes/a grey cast from using it.

Concealer pot:
Description: For those ladies with fine lines and dry skin, you will want to reach for this one. Concealer pots tend to have a more moisturizing feel to them and are easier to blend, as they are generally creamier. They do not settle into or accentuate fine lines as much as the solid stick formulation. Coverage is medium to heavy, buildable.

Our recommendations: Vincent Longo Cream Concealer – good color range, but has moderate coverage, Bobbi Brown creamy concealer kit – many shades available and buildable coverage.

Tubes/Wands with brushes:
Description: This is the creamiest and most liquid form of concealer on the market. The coverage is lighter than other formulations and is best for those with fine lines or wrinkles. This consistency is the easiest to blend so can also be used without a foundation as it almost melts into the skin. However, lightweight coverage can be too light for dark circles, so you have to test out different brand formulations.

Our recommendations: Stila illuminating concealer for a natural look with mica particles that, according to the website “further fool the eye,” and Full Cover Concealer by Makeup Forever for the color range. A product that the fashion world raves about is Touche Eclat by Yves Saint Laurent cosmetics, however we have not personally tried this one and have heard very mixed reviews from other desi girls – it really is a hit or miss product and many have complained of the panda effect with this one. Try it out and let us know how it works for you!

If you have drier skin lean toward the most lightweight consistencies, while those with oily skins should reach for the solid sticks for better adherence and lasting power. Also, if you are looking to cover blemishes and capillaries, try out the sticks and pots, the drier texture lasts longer on breakouts. Creamier textures work better for the skin under the eye, as it does not produce as much moisture as the rest of the face. You can test out the texture of the concealer by trying it on the veins on the inside of your wrist.

How to pick the right color:

Magazines will always tell you to pick a foundation that is one to two shades lighter than your foundation color. While I agree that this is the general rule of thumb, you have to incorporate several factors into your decision, for example, how dark the skin around your eyes is, what your actual skin tone is and most importantly, what if you don’t use foundation?

- If you don’t use foundation: you should choose a concealer that either matches your skin tone closely or is one shade lighter depending on how dark your circles are.

- If you do use foundation: once again gauge how dark your circles are. I don’t believe in going more than one shade lighter than your foundation, but according to beauty experts you can go up to two shades. Just be sure that you never go lighter than two shades or you will definitely end up on panda express. Also, the lighter you go with very dark circles, the more grey cast your circles will look, which will only draw more attention to them.

- For those with fair and medium skin tones, yellow-toned concealers are best, and orange-based tones work well for those with dark or black skin tones. I have found that pink-toned concealers do not work well with the average desi skin and can end up looking ashy.

9-0-2-1-Oh Dear

If you recall the post on choosing the right foundation color, you can try the strip test, but this time on the skin on your neck under your ear rather than on your cheek. Smear three shades on this area and the one that melts into your skin is closest to your color. However, this is not always fool proof, again, because the darkness of undereye circles varies and contrary to popular belief amongst department store salespeople, many ladies do have faces that are lighter than their necks.

Finally, again, like choosing your foundation, you must keep in mind that your skin tone changes from the winter to summer so you may need two shades of concealer for the different times of year. Also, concealer is a trial and error process just like foundation so make sure to see it in different light and take pictures privately beforehand to see how it looks under the flash – or else you may end up tagged and panda-eyed in photos that appear on your crush’s Facebook newsfeed. And no one wants that.

Stay tuned for our post on concealer application techniques!

Photo Credits (In order they appear):
http://www.ehow.com/video_4407882_apply-lip-concealer.html
http://sephora.com/browse/product.jhtml?id=P2858&categoryId=B70#
http://sephora.com/browse/product.jhtml?id=P218431&categoryId=B70
http://www.sephora.com/browse/product.jhtml?id=P2679&shouldPaginate=true&categoryId=5318
http://www.womansday.com/Articles/Beauty/Beauty-s-Best-Sellers.html
http://www.celeb-invasion.com/tag/annalynne-mccord/

Photo Credit: www.planetbollywood.com

For those of us who grew up watching Bollywood movies in the early 90s, the image of Madhuri Dixit smiling and dancing across the screen is still quite clear in our minds. But, for those of us who were into makeup even back then, the awful three inch thick foundation caked on her face is an even more vivid memory. As we entered the age of high-definition television and digital cameras, cosmetics companies began working harder at providing us with weightless makeup that made the foundation from the 1990s look like it belonged in the 1890s. Yes, we are lucky to be living in this age, but an HD lifestyle means we need to be all the more careful about finding the right color foundation, or our makeup blunders will be forever captured and posted for all to see on the latest social networking site (evidence: the foundation faux pas I shared with you in my last post).

Choosing the right foundation shade can be nerve-wracking, but there are a few tried and tested ways to make it (slightly) easier. Let me begin by saying, girls, please, do NOT let department store sales assistants pressure you into buying a foundation before you have tested it out the right way! They may mean well and seem to know what they’re talking about, but only you and those who are familiar with your features (a sister, a close friend) can truly determine if a color is right for you and your daily needs. Trust me, I’ve been through a LOT of different foundations. And by a lot, I mean almost every brand out there. Don’t stop until you find the perfect one!

The first step to choosing the right color is to determine the undertone of your skin. Most people automatically assume that because they have brown skin, they have yellow undertones. This is not always the case, many Desis tend to have pink undertones as well. There are several ways to determine your tone. Some makeup artists suggest looking at the veins on the inside of your wrist. If the veins are blue, you are pink-toned, and if they are green you are yellow-toned. If you cannot make out the color, then you are most likely neutral-toned. Another technique is to first wash your face, pat it dry and place a white towel around your neck. Inspect your skin in the bathroom mirror and you should be able to make out your tone against the contrast of the towel. Buying a foundation based on your undertone helps to prevent you from looking pale and washed-out or kind of dirty (à-la-Lindsay Lohan).

Now, while I agree it’s key to determine your undertone, it’s also important to remember this is only a starting point. For example, not all Bobbi Brown foundations (which are mostly yellow-toned) will suit you just because you have green veins. A couple of years ago I had a makeover done at Bobbi Brown and was contemplating buying the foundation they matched me with. I have very yellow skin so I assumed it would look great – that is, until my mother saw me and asked if I had jaundice and needed to go to the doctor. I washed it right off.

Photo Credit: narscosmetics.com

Photo Credit: www.makemeheal.com

The next step is to try out a few different brands. Don’t restrict yourself to a cosmetics company just because it suits some of your other South Asian friends. A lot of Desi girls tend to gravitate toward MAC Cosmetics, which has gained a reputation of catering to women of color. A few years ago, MAC was the go-to brand in foundation for almost all skin tones. That may have been true then, but ladies, times have changed. Although you may not know it because cosmetics companies do a shoddy job at advertising for South Asian women, many brands have recently been dedicated to adding more shades to their makeup lines to cater to different ethnicities. While MAC may work for some, it did absolutely nothing for me – I either looked ashy or orange, they simply could not color match me. I turned to another company NARS that like MAC, focuses on women of color in their ad campaigns. I happened to find what I consider to by my perfect match and haven’t strayed yet. If you have the $$$ to spend, I would suggest checking out the Giorgio Armani line – the feel of their foundation is absolutely divine and their shade levels are pretty decent. If you’re a bit strapped for cash, drop by the Clinique counter, they are constantly introducing new formulations and colors. There are also brands created for women of ethnicity like Maven Cosmetics (the co-founders are Chinese and Pakistani), which we will be discussing later.

When actually trying on the foundations, you or the sales assistant should swipe three different shades of foundation in your color and skin tone range on your cheek (never match the color to your hand as your face color is very different). The one that melts into your skin and can barely be seen is the one for you. I know some girls are tempted to go for the lighter shades because it’s culturally encouraged, but ladies, we are no longer in the 80s – tan is beautiful. Also, you are not fooling anyone into thinking you have a lighter complexion, we can still see the rest of you

Alas, if only that were the end of it! The next step is actually the most important. What many people are unaware of is that your foundation color changes a little while after you first apply it. The oil in your moisturizer or skin (even if your skin is on the drier side), as well as using the wrong toned shade, can oxidize the foundation and change the shade. As a result, you may end up with orange-y looking skin. Similarly, if you buy too light of a shade, the color can start to look chalky and even though you might think it looks all right on your face, it is very visible against your neck.

Photo Credit: www.desifashionpolice.com

Finally, (yes finally!) you should ask to take a sample of the foundation home. Try it on yourself with your own blush and lipstick. Your foundation is not worn alone, it’s a base for the makeup you already own and therefore must complement it! Also, most cosmetic companies offer foundations in both oil-free and normal consistencies, so make sure you’re buying a color that’s right for your skin type (oily, acne-prone, dry, etc). Be sure to test your shade out in the day vs. the night, take a mirror outside your house and make sure you don’t look orange in the sunlight (yes, I’ve had that happen to me too). If you’re completely satisfied, then congratulations, you’re one of the 10% of girls who is actually happy with her foundation. If you’re like the rest of us and are not completely content, keep searching, there are many options – the world no longer revolves around MAC!

This may sound like a lot just to find a foundation, but as I said, your foundation is the base to the rest of your makeup. If your foundation is off, no lipstick or blush can make up for it, people won’t notice how great your eyes look – they WILL be focusing on your ashy/orange face, trust me. So, spending a little time searching for the right shade is worth it.

One last tip on foundation shades: no matter how dark-skinned you are, your skin color will change slightly with the seasons. Most people can’t use the same foundation color for winter and summer – some tan so much they need to move down two shades. Even if you look fabulous in the winter, you may be looking scary by summer. Do yourself a favor and consider looking into a second foundation when the weather gets warmer. You’ll save yourself the hassle of having to untag all your Facebook photos this summer.

Photo Credit: amean j. (www.ameanj.com)

Happy hunting!